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Sunday, March 6, 2005; Page M08

On a recent trip to New Zealand, our family became obsessed with the Kiwi's national dessert -- a meringue-like shell topped with whipped cream and fruit, known as pavlova. Others may trek halfway around the globe to take the "Lord of the Rings" tour, sample Pinot Noirs or hike the Routeburn Track. Not us. Given the choice between jumping 43 meters off the Kawarau Bridge -- the world's first bungee-jumping site -- or sitting in a cafe sipping flat whites (a latte with less foam) while eating the addictive confection, we pick the "pav."

Named for Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova -- who toured Down Under in the 1920s -- the dessert's history has been in dispute for decades. Both New Zealand and Australia claim ownership, and we heard various explanations of the name: It's meant to evoke the ballerina's tutu, or perhaps was created to satisfy the dancer's dainty appetite.

We sampled pav for the first time in Te Anau, gateway to the famed Milford Sound. After a day of "tramping," we settled in at the Olive Tree Cafe. My husband's entree -- a bizarre combination of chicken, melted brie, bananas and blueberry sauce -- was the topic of conversation, until the pav arrived.

You never forget your first time. In our inexperienced opinions, this one was the perfect combination: crunchy on the outside and marshmallowy on the inside. Its only drawback: An accompaniment that was the equivalent of fruit cocktail.

Sticky Fingers Bar in Christchurch won accolades from our group for its version named "Love Handles." Without a reservation, we settled for "take-away." Our taste test took place in Cathedral Square on New Year's Eve. As New Zealand's own The Bubblemen performed, "Brown Eyed Girl," and the clock inched toward midnight, we ate pav from a Styrofoam container. Could life be any sweeter?

Once back home, we sought to recreate that tasty experience. Bryon Dorrian, chef to the ambassador of New Zealand, kindly volunteered to teach me to make the perfect pavlova. His recipe, featured above, brings an unforgettable taste of Middle Earth to the new world.

Janice Kaplan

Ingredients

nonstick cooking spray for baking sheet

6 large egg whites (at room temperature)

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon white vinegar

Topping

1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream, whipped until stiff peaks form

2 kiwis, peeled and sliced

8 ounces strawberries, de-stemmed and sliced

1 banana, peeled and sliced

(may substitute raspberries, blackberries, blueberries or pineapple for above fruits)

Pulp of 2 passion fruits

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and cover with cooking spray.

In a large mixing bowl using an electric mixer on high, whisk egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it has dissolved. Using a spatula gently fold in vanilla, cornstarch and vinegar.

With the spatula, mound the mixture onto the baking sheet in a shape that is approximately 7 inches round and 4 inches high. Shape evenly with the flat side of a knife, smoothing the top and sides. Using a metal spoon, make a slight indentation in the center, to create a bowl effect.

Bake on the lower to middle rack of your oven for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 275 degrees and continue baking for 1 hour. Do not open the oven or use a fan while cooking. Turn off heat and let the pavlova cool inside the oven for at least 1 hour with the door slightly ajar. Pavlova should end up pale with a crisp outer shell.

When ready to serve, carefully transfer the pavlova onto a serving plate. Top with whipped cream and arrange the fruit decoratively. Drizzle with passion fruit pulp.

Note: The base can be cooked the day before. When cooled, transfer to a serving plate and lightly drape with plastic wrap. Keep in a cool, dry place. (Do not refrigerate.) It is normal for the shell to crack. Decorate with whipped cream and fruit just before serving. Serves 10 to 12.

Recipe courtesy of Bryon G. Dorrian.

Per serving (based on 12): 231 calories, 3 gm protein, 31 gm carbohydrates, 11 gm fat, 41 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 41 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

Don't want to cook? Let someone else whip up the meringue treat at one of these sweet spots:

BlackSalt. 4883 MacArthur Blvd. N.W. 202-342-9101. Pastry chef Susan Wallace's $8 version features the traditional strawberries, kiwi and passion fruit. Beyond desserts, the menu at this new establishment is driven by its fish market, which sells fresh seafood from around the world.

Dean & Deluca. 3276 M Street, N.W. 202-342-2500. The dessert case at this specialty foods store and espresso bar offers individual servings of pavlova ($5.50), made locally by Pastries by Randolph (see below).

Pastries by Randolph. 4500 Lee Highway, Arlington, 703-243-0070. Located on the same block as Cassatt's, this pastry shop has baked pavlova daily for the last 16 years. An individual serving topped with seasonal fruits is $4.

© 2005 The Washington Post Company